Stoney 24th April

Getting out to go climbing has never been easier, as 4 of us piled onto the No. 65 bus to Buxton from Sheffield.
Driving out through the dark peak we descended into Valley of Stoney Middleton, we got dropped off at the lay-by across the road from the impressive Windy Buttress and Garage Buttress of Stoney.
Unsurprisingly there was no one else on the crag when we arrived at just after 10, meeting up with a couple more friends we headed over to Prayer Wheel Wall.
By lunch time several other groups had arrived making it seem a bit more used but still pretty empty considering its a glorious Saturday and it would've been empty if it hadn't been for our group of 8.

That said Scoop Wall got two ascents and so did Windhover, both classic routes starting from Windy Ledge. There also seems to be a new line of bolts going up between Kink (E5 6b) and Kellogg (E5 6b). Would be interested to know what it is.

Where have all the Climbers gone?

Following a quality day at Horseshoe Quarry we went for another day on the Limestone, so headed to Aldery Cliff. We left early to catch the early morning sun and were incredibly surprised to see this roadside crag devoid of people. It's full of easier trad lines on high quality rock with little or no loose sections.

Unlike a lot of Limestone crags especially trad ones which can often feel big and intimidating, Aldery Cliff has a much friendlier feel being slightly smaller and nicely situated in a quiet valley with no walk-in. It seems daft that this crag is empty when Stanage is probably heaving.
After the sun drifted round the corner just after lunch time we decided to seek out some afternoon sun.

Heading back towards Sheffield we stopped off at Water-Cum-Jolly for a bit of bouldering and a go on some super hard sport lines, mainly because the easy ones were still seeping a bit and had extra large puddles under them.
It seems like its going to be Limestone all summer now.

Aldery Cliff, Picture Courtesy Ben Ranson

Tom Anthistle on Clothesline S 4a

Spain in the Peak District

Winters over and the suns come out so it's time to hit the Limestone and start cranking hard.
So off we trotted off to some quality Peak sport climbing so we can pretend we're in Spain, our first stop was Horseshoe Quarry.
Lots of other people with the same idea but it was never too busy, the BMC have done a quality job re-equipping the lower-off's and several of the routes despite a few badly placed new bolts.
The day was slightly marred by some quite aggressive route cleaning on the back wall next to Neanderthal and then pulling off some large blocks myself while trying a new line near The Whinger in the top Quarry area.

Me with the block which nearly took my head off

Picture courtesy of Michael Bamford